The Bluebonnet Norwich and Norfolk Terrier Club does not recommend, guarantee, endorse, nor rate these recommendations or contributors, their kennel or their stock. The purpose of this section is to share knowledge with breeders who have vast experience in whelping and raising puppies. The tips and tricks below are intended to augment qualified veterinarian care, not as a substitute for qualified veterinarian care of the dam and puppies.

4/28/08
From: DeBe's Norwich
Let the dam have the placentas. The placenta stimulates hormones needed for good milk. Then all my girls get Espilac in their watered meal once or twice a day depending on her eating habits. I also have all of my dogs and bitches on raspberry tea, Omega 3, and yogurt for acidophilus. Being sure they have good calcium levels right before they go into labor is of major importance. Labor drains it out. Sharing my 20 years of breeding. . Remember the first 24 hours they need energy not food.

(4/17/08)
Whelping Safety Tip: For a minimum of 10 days prior to whelping (preferably two weeks) isolate the pregnant bitch to give her the opportunity to feel she is in a "safe" whelping environment, away from any perceived danger or competition to her or her puppies. Stress can cause early whelping, cessation of labor and other detrimental issues for the pregnant bitch. For at least three weeks following whelping, keep the dam and puppies isolated from other pets. In addition to protecting dam and puppies from serious diseases, this allows the dam to concentrate on taking care of the puppies without any fear of harm or compeition for her puppies. I have known dams to accidentally kill their newborn puppies when their "den" is invaded by other pets, though they may get along fine with other pets outside the new puppy environment.

(3/26/08)
From Helene Gisin
I feed a pregnant bitch the same food as she ever has until the 5th or 6th week of pregnancy and than I switch to puppy food from the same branch (Royal Canin mini at the moment). But I would like to ad that
all my bitches (and the dogs) are slim and packed with muzzles from our daily walks. The pregnant bitch also gets her daily walk until she does not want to come with us anymore this is most likely one or two
days before delivery.

(3/14/08)
Traditionally, semen collection is evaluated at the point of collection, and "extender" is added before it is packaged and shipped to the breeder. More and more often, semen is viable at the point of collection, and since it was viable at the collection point, it is not evaluated at the receiving vet. We now evaluate the semen again at the receiving vet to make sure the semen has survived the shipping process - Shipping and Handling can impact the motility and/or the live sperm count. We now keep some of the collection back with the collection vet to warm and test again at the same time the receiving vet inseminates the bitch. We then know exactly what the motility and sperm count should be if the shipping and handling process has not had a negative impact on the semen..

(3/1/08)
From DeBe's Norwich
The most important hints I can give anyone for whelping is always wait until the bitch has been in labor for at least 2 hours before C-Section.

(2/22/08)
From Arriba Norfolks
If a bitch stops her contractions, take her for a walk and she will instinctively try to relieve herself, which will stimulate contractions. A bit of vanilla ice cream may also help stimulate contractions. More than two hours between puppies generally suggests you need veterinarian assistance.

(2/12/08)
From Starsen Chihuahua’s, recommended foods for pregnant and gestating bitches, puppies: http://members.cox.net/starsen/CALCIUMDRY.html

(2/2/08)
From Tony Gabrielli, Domby Kennels
Many years ago one of my bitches that I co-owned had a c- section. I was called the next day because the bitch was rejecting the pups. Since there was no fluid or placenta available a day later, but the bitch was still discharging, I rubbed the pups all over the discharge. When we put the pups back in she immediately began cleaning them and settled into nursing them. Just a bit more info for all of you.

(1/26/08)
As your vet to inquire about a Canine Herpes Vaccine available from Merial in the UK. Learn about CHV BEFORE you breed to increase your chances of delivering a healthy litter. See more information in our Links/Health Related Sites section on this site.

(1/23/08)
From DeBe's Norwich
I always give probiocin on day 2, day of tails, day when eyes open, and when they start eating big puppy food. I also give it to all my dogs whenever they get shots or have a stressful procedure done. It keeps the digestive system more balanced so they don't get runny poo. If for some reason Mom or the pups get sick and need antibiotics then I give this everyday.

(1/9/07)
A clear discharge and swollen vulva is normal a few days before a bitch goes into labor. Any color to the discharge is a sign of trouble and you should seek the advice of your veterinarian.

(12/29/07)
Two weeks before the projected whelping date, start taking the dam's temperature morning and evening, at about the same time each day. She should have a normal temperature until about 24 hours away from her whelping date. Then, the temperature should drop to below 99 degrees as she goes into pre-labor. The temperature will rise to above 100 degrees again when she actually goes into labor.

(12/17/07)
A combination of progesterone test and vaginal smears can determine, within a few hours, the optimal time for breeding a bitch. Surgical insemination is considered the most successful method of impregnation, as it eliminates anything in the vaginal tract of the bitch that could kill the sperm, and surgical implantation places the semen exactly where it needs to be.

(11/21/07)
From DeBe's Norwich
Always keep drafts away from pup and have the temp between 75 and 80 degrees.

(11/13/07)
From Purina Purina: Building a Whelping Box

(11/7/07)
From Infinity Kennels
A bitch in labor will need to rest periodically during the whelping process. If she is in hard labor (visible contractions) and does not contract again for over 15 minutes, walk her on a lead for a few minutes or give her a tablespoon of vanilla ice cream. The exercise and calcium will stimulate contractions again.

(10/7/07)
From DeBe's Norwich
Blessed Thistle-I usually get it in a powdered tea form.  I have never had to use it thank goodness.  What I was told to do is put it in water 1 part tea 3 part boiling water for about an hour then put the tea into a bottle that has a dropper with 3parts tea 1 part vodka.  Then add a touch of Karo syrup to the outside of the dropper when you give it to her.  Start with one full dropper 3 times a day until you have the milk in then put it at 2 times a day for 2 days and if her production stays wean her off of it completely.  I only recommend using this if you are in trouble with milk production. 

(9/26/07)
From DeBe's Norwich
Handling newborn puppies several short periods every day until they are about 5 weeks old creates the human bond. Once they are well on their feet and weaned, start taking them on short field trips and exposing them to noises and different environments. (Webmaster's NOTE: Follow your vet's advice with regard to your puppy's immunity before exposing your puppy to an environment that could pose a threat.)

(9/16/07)
From DeBe's Norwich
During labor I mix espilac and pedialyte and offer that to her while in labor and for the next 24 hours afterwards.  I find that is the one way to get them to eat or drink anything in those first hours or even days.  

((9/12/07)
From DeBe's Norwich
If you have a sluggish newborn, rub a bit of clear Karo on its mouth, wait about ten minutes and place it on the dam to nurse. The extra glucose will give the puppy needed strength to nurse.

(9/9/07)
From Infinity Kennels
Puppies are actually born 63 days from the date of ovulation, not 63 days from the date of breeding. This is why progesterone tests assist in determining a bitch's due date.

(8/1/07)
From DDV Kennels
A "To Do Calendar" for newborn puppies.

(7/31/07)
From Infinity Kennels
Pre-Natal Care
We do not supplement our pregnant bitches, but after the first month of pregnancy, we do switch them to puppy or lactating formula of dog food, which we keep her on until the puppies are weaned. Within two weeks of whelping, we begin feeding 3 small meals/day. After the puppies are whelped, we offer the bitch supplemental calcium in the form of yogurt or cottage cheese until the puppies are weaned.

(7/9/07)
From Ketka Kennels
For a lactating bitch that has insufficient milk for puppies:
A shot of oxytocin. However, the bitch often will not recover. If she does
it will not be for a few days.
I would take those pups and start tubing (feeding) them 100%. Day and
night.
Get fluids into them sub-q ASAP.
For feeding...
Rule of thumb is 1cc per ounce of body weight every 2 to 3 hrs. Give
electrolytes (CVS brand Pedialyte- plain) to start... then go to formula. My favorite
formula is Just Born made by Farnum. Also give a TINY spot of yogurt from
the tip of your finger every other day.
KEEP THEM WARM! Even if it means taking them from Mom. A cold puppy cannot
absorb any food.
Potty them at each feeding. Cottonballs... wetted lightly will do the trick.
Do not rub but rather hold cotton to the body and message.
I know you alreay know a lot of this Joan.... just took the opportunity to
share some knowledge.